Sunday, 14 June 2015
Easy DIY template for measuring Knitting Gauge.
How often I have seen comments from people that their finished project didn't match the pattern measurement:
"The sweater doesn't fit me! But I used the yarn and needles that were on the pattern! " She wails.
Yes sure: But did you measure your gauge? Yes; your gauge, not the gauge the pattern designer got with those needles and that yarn!
We all knit in slightly, or very different ways. It is very important to work a gauge swatch before starting your project!
Yes I know that you can't wait to get going and start this fantastic new design! But patience and get that swatch done!
An average gauge swatch should be at least about 4" x 4" (10cm x 10 cm) That gives you enough to measure stitches and rows. Elizabeth Zimmermann recommended measuring over 3" making it easier to get an average. A swatch should ideally be worked in stockinette if the pattern gives gauge in stockinette or in the stitch pattern indicated. Be Warned! Different stitch patterns can give very different results!
I usually start my swatch with a few rows of garter stitch, then work in stockinette with a few stitches in garter at each edge. I end with a few rows of garter stitch. This helps avoid the swatch rolling up on itself.
If the pattern calls for the swatch to be blocked, then block it as the finished garment will be. You can even wash it if you feel the yarn may change after washing! If the designer has given specific instructions follow them!
In every case let it rest for a while before measuring. That is something I learnt in my machine knitting days. It will then take the final form.
Lay it flat and use the stitch gauge template to measure it. Place the template on top and count the stitches and rows in the "window"! I used to find that with pins and rulers or measuring tapes I would be counting wrong, maybe counting a partial stitch as a whole one which on a big garment with many stitches and rows can give a significant difference in size creating an ill-fitting garment.
Now how do you make your template?
To make a simple stitch gauge template you just need some medium weight cardboard.
I also used some graph paper, a pencil, glue, a ruler and a sharp cutter. (A sharp knife would do).
Decide what size template you want to make. I made two here, one to measure 3" and a smaller one to measure 1".
I drew a square one inch bigger than the template on some graph paper for ease, and another the size I wanted inside.
I glued the template on some cardboard. Then using a sharp cutter and a ruler as a guide, I cut the inner part leaving a "window". Very simple.
Just place the the template over the swatch and it is easy to accurately count the rows and stitches that you see.
If you make a 4" template you will divide the results by 4 to get stitches and rows per inch; for this 3" one I divide by 3.
I find a smaller 1" one very useful when making my doll patterns.
The bigger the swatch template, the more accurate your results will be. Remember to include partial stitches when calculating!
Easy? Please let me know what you think of this!
Friday, 12 June 2015
Summer knits and hairbands for American Girl Dolls!
Ella-Mae.
I am so lucky to have some super-quick efficient testers who control my patterns!
My latest pattern "Ella-Mae" has a matching hairband as part of the outfit. I have great difficulty buying the hairband blanks for American Girl dolls here so had to adapt cheap plastic ones.
This was an idea I had seen on another blog so just had to have a go!
If you would like to check it out this was the original blog post: http://tikidoll.blogspot.it/2011/09/how-to-make-headband-...
These were some cheap plastic hairbands I found for a few cents.
First I bent the hairband and held it in place with some wire leaving a small amount to hold it.
Then using the extra wire as a handle I dipped it into some boiling water for a couple of minutes. Here the time depends on the plastic. The orange one took far less. Careful not to let it touch the pan, just the water!
I then put it into cold water to set the shape. With some cutters I chopped off the extra length.
I quickly redipped the ends in the boiling water to smooth any rough edges.
Look how cute!
Here is the orange one.
I sewed the knitted pieces from the pattern onto the hairband and added the bow!
So easy to make and so cute!
I would love to hear if you try this!
Friday, 29 May 2015
Italian Sewn Bind off Tutorial (Kitchener or grafted)
In my last post I started a swatch to demostrate how to do an Italian tubular cast on which I learnt when I first came here. In this tutorial I have continued the swatch and will show you how to do a sewn bind off to match the cast on.
Once again it was my neighbour who showed me how to work this. An old lady who couldn't read or write she made many wonderful things and was capable of reading a piece of knitting as if reading a pattern. I learnt to "reverse engineer" knitting following her example!
All knitting instructions I have seen in books and online seem to divide the work when doing a sewn bind off, placing stitches on 2 needles. She taught me to bind them off from the same needle they were on while knitting.
.
First work two rows of double knitting:
1)* K1, S1 purlwise with yarn in front. Repeat form *to end of row.
2) As row 1.
Now take a blunt tipped yarn needle. Cut the yarn leaving at least twice the width of the work in length. I usually calculate about 3x the width of the stitches to be bound off. It is better to have excess yarn than to have to join in the middle of sewing!
The first stitch should be a knit stitch. Slip the needle in the stitch as if slipping purlwise (without twisting it) Slip the stitch onto yarn.
The next stitch is a purl stitch. Slip the needle into the stitch from the front as if you were going to knit it, Slip onto yarn.
Now bring the yarn over the top of the work and go into the left loop of the last knit stitch worked bring the needle out of the next knit stitch on the needle slipping it as if to slip purlwise.
Take yarn over the top to the back again and enter into the left leg of the last sewn purl st and go out of the next one on needle as if to knit it.
Keep repeating these movements to the end of the row.
She taught me to say "in and out" You are going inwards on the last stitch worked on that side, and out of the next stitch on needle.Loop over the top and repeated on the other side.
See what a nice neat edge this gives? It is almost identical to the cast on she taught me.
This edge is very elastic. I find it easier to work from the one needle than to divide onto 2 as many tutorials show you. If binding off a lot of stitches there is less risk off dropping them. if you do run out of yarn while sewing, simply make a neat join at the last stitch and continue sewing, don't try to pass knots through the stitches! You can hide the end in the edge quite easily when finished.
I have tried to take a lot of photos to show what I was doing. If you have any questions please let me know and I will try to answer!
Happy (Italian) Knitting! Lol!
Once again it was my neighbour who showed me how to work this. An old lady who couldn't read or write she made many wonderful things and was capable of reading a piece of knitting as if reading a pattern. I learnt to "reverse engineer" knitting following her example!
All knitting instructions I have seen in books and online seem to divide the work when doing a sewn bind off, placing stitches on 2 needles. She taught me to bind them off from the same needle they were on while knitting.
.
First work two rows of double knitting:
1)* K1, S1 purlwise with yarn in front. Repeat form *to end of row.
2) As row 1.
Now take a blunt tipped yarn needle. Cut the yarn leaving at least twice the width of the work in length. I usually calculate about 3x the width of the stitches to be bound off. It is better to have excess yarn than to have to join in the middle of sewing!
The first stitch should be a knit stitch. Slip the needle in the stitch as if slipping purlwise (without twisting it) Slip the stitch onto yarn.
The next stitch is a purl stitch. Slip the needle into the stitch from the front as if you were going to knit it, Slip onto yarn.
Now bring the yarn over the top of the work and go into the left loop of the last knit stitch worked bring the needle out of the next knit stitch on the needle slipping it as if to slip purlwise.
Take yarn over the top to the back again and enter into the left leg of the last sewn purl st and go out of the next one on needle as if to knit it.
Keep repeating these movements to the end of the row.
She taught me to say "in and out" You are going inwards on the last stitch worked on that side, and out of the next stitch on needle.Loop over the top and repeated on the other side.
See what a nice neat edge this gives? It is almost identical to the cast on she taught me.
I have tried to take a lot of photos to show what I was doing. If you have any questions please let me know and I will try to answer!
Happy (Italian) Knitting! Lol!
Italian Cast On Tutorial. (Or tubular cast on)
When I first came to Italy in the seventies I was already a fairly proficient knitter but here I discovered new ways of doing things.
Apart from the different way of holding the needles which I will talk about in a future post, I also found that my neighbour used a different cast on method which I thought was better for many projects. This cast on gives a tubular cast on which is far stretchier and also pleasing to the eye!
This way of casting on is excellent when making topdown sweaters or socks where you need an elastic stretchy edge. If knitting in the round I usually start flat and then join on the third row!
This is how she taught me to cast on with some waste yarn.
Let's say that I need a knitted piece with 40sts:
Cast on half the stitches + one stitch with waste yarn. For this example I need 40 sts so I cast on 20 + 1sts = 21sts.
With the working yarn work as follows :
Row 1) *Knit one stitch, Yarn over, (that is bring the yarn to the front and pass back over the needle to the back), repeat from * to last stitch, K1. ( 41sts on needle).
Row 2) *Slip the first stitch purlwise with the yarn in front, Move the yarn to the back of work, knit the yarn over. Repeat from * until you reach the last stitch, S1 purlwise.
Row 3)* K1, S1 purlwise, repeat from * to last stitch, K1.
Row 4) * S1 purlwise, K1, repeat from * to last st, S1 purlwise.
Now work in K1, P1, rib as usual. (Or change to stitch required) If, as in this swatch, you have one stitch more than you need purl 2 together at the end to get the correct stitch count.
At the end of work carefully undo the waste yarn. You have a neat double knitted edge.
In my next post I will continue this swatch to show you how to do a sewn bind off which matches the cast on.
Apart from the different way of holding the needles which I will talk about in a future post, I also found that my neighbour used a different cast on method which I thought was better for many projects. This cast on gives a tubular cast on which is far stretchier and also pleasing to the eye!
This way of casting on is excellent when making topdown sweaters or socks where you need an elastic stretchy edge. If knitting in the round I usually start flat and then join on the third row!
This is how she taught me to cast on with some waste yarn.
Let's say that I need a knitted piece with 40sts:
Cast on half the stitches + one stitch with waste yarn. For this example I need 40 sts so I cast on 20 + 1sts = 21sts.
With the working yarn work as follows :
Row 1) *Knit one stitch, Yarn over, (that is bring the yarn to the front and pass back over the needle to the back), repeat from * to last stitch, K1. ( 41sts on needle).
Row 2) *Slip the first stitch purlwise with the yarn in front, Move the yarn to the back of work, knit the yarn over. Repeat from * until you reach the last stitch, S1 purlwise.
Row 3)* K1, S1 purlwise, repeat from * to last stitch, K1.
Row 4) * S1 purlwise, K1, repeat from * to last st, S1 purlwise.
Now work in K1, P1, rib as usual. (Or change to stitch required) If, as in this swatch, you have one stitch more than you need purl 2 together at the end to get the correct stitch count.
At the end of work carefully undo the waste yarn. You have a neat double knitted edge.
In my next post I will continue this swatch to show you how to do a sewn bind off which matches the cast on.
Friday, 22 May 2015
Knitting Songs.
Old Knitting Songs.
A few years ago I had fun searching for knitting songs. It was before I found and joined Ravelry. Today I was checking files on my old computer and found this file I had made and saved. I thought it would be nice to add them on here.
If you know any other craft rhymes I would love to add them to this collection!
Knitting rhymes:
In
through the front door,
Once
around the back,
Peek
through the window,
And
off jumps Jack!
Jack
goes in,
Put
on his scarf,
Comes
back out,
And
takes it off!
In
through the front door,
Run
around the back,
Peeking
through the window,
And
off jumps Jack.
In
through the front door,
Around
the back.
Out
through the window,
And
off jumps Jack.
In
through the front door,
Run
around the back.
Hop
through the window,
Off
jumps Jack.
Squeeze
down the chimney
Quick
‘round the tree.
Wiggle
back up to the rooftop
Presents
for me.
Go
into the house
Grab
your scarf
Take
it outside
Before
the cat barfs
Put
the man on the fence;
Put
his hat on;
Twist
his leg
And
knock him off.
In
front of the fence
Catch
the goat,
Back
we go,
Jump
off the boat!
Under
the fence, (Knit or purl)
Catch
the sheep.
Back
we come,
Off
we leap!
In
through the front door, (Continental knit)
Up
over the back,
Peek
through the window,
And
off jumps Jack!
Purl
Rhymes:
In
front of the fence,
Catch
the goat,
Back
we go,
Jump
off the boat!
Under
the fence
Catch
the sheep,
Back
we come,
Off
we leap!
Down
through the bunny hole
Around
the big tree,
Up
pops the bunny,
And
off goes she!
Spring
up from your slumber
We’ll
dance round the tree
Wiggle
back up to the rooftop
Presents
for me!
Finger
knitting:
Into
the lake
Pull
out the snake.
Crochet
Rhymes:
Catch
the fish and pull him through (chain)
Hook
and pull through
Hook
again baby and
Pull
through two. (Double St)
Niddy-Noddy Song:
Niddy-noddy, niddy-noddy, two heads and one body.
'Tis one, tain't one, t'will be one soon.
'Tis two, tain't two, t'will be two soon.
'Tis three, tain't three, t'will be three soon.
Niddy-Noddy Song:
Niddy-noddy, niddy-noddy, two heads and one body.
'Tis one, tain't one, t'will be one soon.
'Tis two, tain't two, t'will be two soon.
'Tis three, tain't three, t'will be three soon.
Lace
Makers Prayer:
Guide
my hands with speed and grace,
To
weave the intricacies of this lace.
Let
the bobbins weave with ease
To
create a pattern that will please.
Let
there be Love in its creation
And
give it Artistry in its inspiration.
May
special care keep the threads from breaking
And
give me Energy for its making.
Allow
this lace to bring joy and pleasure
And
give to others a lifelong treasure.
I do hope others can add to this list!
Monday, 18 May 2015
DIY Spinning Wheel!
Well my spinning adventure may actually take place! After looking for wheels everywhere and anywhere and finding that they cost a fortune and a half; DH obstinately decide to make me one. Although I found a plan online for him, obviously he didn't use it and is ploughing on making it how he says! I'll show a couple of photos of how it is going so far!
I still need to wash my wool. Don't hold your breath though! First I needed the plastic bowls, then there was the usual May invasion of little red spiders everywhere. Yesterday was windy and today it has poured down!
I will update as soon as possible!
Getting started!
Genius at work!
A few pieces done.
Starting to look more like it!
Shaping the metal parts.
It will soon be done. Working on the other pieces!
Pretend yarn! Just used a drop spindle on some I had washed.
I still need to wash my wool. Don't hold your breath though! First I needed the plastic bowls, then there was the usual May invasion of little red spiders everywhere. Yesterday was windy and today it has poured down!
I will update as soon as possible!
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