Wednesday, 18 April 2018

Clara Les Cheries



Free knitting pattern

On Ravelry a group of us had fun making our own versions of a doll dress for a Gotz doll which is on a Pinterest board. (There is no pattern available.).
I decided to make something similar for my Les Cheries 2001 dolls Clara and Camille. This is the pattern I came up with. Hope you like it. 

Notions:
50 g Light fingering weight yarn.



Needles: US 1.5/2.5mm. (or those you need to obtain gauge)
Darning needle.
Stitch markers or waste yarn.
3 small buttons.
Difficulty:


Gauge: 9  sts x 11 rows = 1 inch. In stockinette.

Abbreviations:
Co: cast on.

Bo: bind off.
K: knit
P: purl
St-stitch: Sts- stitches
K2 tog: Knit two stitches together as one stitch.
Ssk: Slip, slip, knit, slip 2 stitches and knit them together.
Yo: yarn over
dd: Slip 1, knit 2sts together and pass slipped stitch over. (Double decrease)

m1l: Insert the left-hand needle from front to back under the strand of yarn which runs between the stitch just worked and the next stitch on the left-hand needle. Knit this stitch through the back loop.
m1r: Insert the left-hand needle from the back to front under the strand of yarn which runs between the stitch just worked and the next stitch on the left-hand needle. Knit this stitch through the front loop.
Bh: button hole.

Les Cheries

Co 37 sts.
1-2: Knit.
3: S1, k1, yo, k2tog, k2, m1r, k1, m1l, k5, m1r, k1, m1l, k11, m1r, k1, m1l, k5, m1r,k1,m1l, k6.
4: S1, k3, purl to last 4sts, k4. (45sts)
5: S1, k6, m1r, k1, m1l, k7, m1r, k1, m1l, k13, m1r, k1, m1l, k7, m1r,k1,m1l, k7.
6: S1, k3, purl to last 4sts, k4. (53sts)
7: S1, k7, m1r, k1, m1l, k9, m1r, k1, m1l, k15, m1r, k1, m1l, k9, m1r, k1, m1l, k8.
8: S1, k3, purl to last 4sts, k4. (61sts)
9: S1, k8, m1r, k1, m1l, k11, m1r, k1, m1l, k4, yo, k3, dd, k3, yo, k4, m1r, k1, m1l, k11, m1r, k1, m1l, k9.
10: S1, k3, purl to last 4sts, k4. (69sts)
11: S1, k9, m1r, k1, m1l, k13, m1r, k1, m1l, k6, yo, k2, dd, k2, yo, k6, m1r, k1, m1l, k13, m1r, k1, m1l, k10.
12: S1, k3, purl to last 4sts, k4. (77sts)
13: S1, k10, m1r, k1, m1l, k15, m1r, k1, m1l, k8, yo, k1, dd, k1, yo, k8, m1r, k1, m1l, k15, m1r, k1, m1l, k11.
14: S1, k3, purl to last 4sts, k4. (85sts)
15: S1, k11, m1r, k1, m1l, k17, m1r, k1, m1l, k10, yo, dd, yo, k10, m1r, k1, m1l, k17, m1r, k1, m1l, k12.
16: S1, k3, purl to last 4sts, k4. (93sts)
17: S1, k1, yo, k2tog, k9, m1r, k1, m1l, k19, m1r, k1, m1l, k3, yo, k3, dd, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, dd, k3, yo, k3, m1r, k1, m1l, k19, m1r, k1, m1l, k13.
18: S1, k3, purl to last 4sts, k4. (101sts)

19: S1, k13, k23sts for sleeve, turn work, k23, turn work, bo 23sts.  Knit central sts; k5, yo, k2, dd, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, dd, k2, yo, k5, k23sts for sleeve, turn work, k23, turn work, bo 23sts. 


20: S1, k3, p47, k4. (55sts)
21: S1, k19, yo, k1, dd, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, dd, k1, yo, k20.
22: S1, k3, p47, k4. (55sts)
23: S1, k20, yo, dd, yo, k7, yo, dd, yo, k21.
24: S1, k3, p47, k4. (55sts)
25: S1, k11, ssk, k2tog, k7, yo, k3, dd, k3, yo, k7, ssk, k2tog, k12.
26: S1, k3, p43, k4. (51sts)
27: S1, k10, ssk, k2tog, k7, yo, k2, dd, k2, yo, k7, ssk, k2tog, k11.
28: S1, k3, p39, k4. (47sts)
29: S1, k20, yo, k1, dd, k1, yo, k21.
30: S1, k3, p39, k4. (47sts)
31: S1, k21, yo, dd, yo, k22.
32: S1, k3, p39, k4. (47sts)
33: S1, k46.
34: S1, k3, p39, k4. (47sts).

Start knitting skirt in the round.

Knit together the first 5 and last 5 sts overlapping the buttonhole border. Continue working as for round 1. (It would be helpful to place a marker at beginning of round)
1: *K1, yo, k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round
2: *K3, p1. Repeat from * to end of round.
3: *K2, yo, k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round
4: *K4, p1. Repeat from * to end of round.
5: *K3, yo, k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round
6: *K5, p1. Repeat from * to end of round.

Continue working as before to the desired length. I did 34 rounds.

On the pink version I added a knit round and a purl round before binding off. That does help with the drape of the dress.

This does need blocking to drape well.




Les Cheries 2001

I also made this version for my Gotz Hannah doll.




And one failed attempt turned into a cute top for my Disney animator! (One good thing about having different sorts of dolls is that I am sure to find one it does fit even when it doesn't fit who it was supposed to! Lol!) 


Pocahontas.


It isn't always easy to get the correct size and often I have to go back to the drawing board and try again! That is a part of doll kntting designing.

I hope you enjoyed this.

ETA: I have corrected a couple of typos on the skirt instructions.

Saturday, 7 April 2018

Camilla Free Knitting Pattern



Camilla for Wellie wisher and Heart 4 heart type dolls.


Free knitting pattern


Notions:
25g double knitting weight yarn

Needles: US 3/3.mm. (or those you need to obtain gauge)
Darning needle.
Stitch markers or waste yarn.
5 small snaps.

Difficulty:


Gauge: 6 sts x 9 rows = 1 inch. In pattern.


Abbreviations:

Co: cast on.

Bo: bind off.

K: knit

P: purl

St-stitch: Sts- stitches

K2 tog: Knit two stitches together as one stitch.

Ssk: Slip, slip, knit, slip 2 stitches and knit them together.

Yo: yarn over

kfb: Knit into front and then back of stitch.



Fits Wellie wishers, Hearts 4 hearts, Les Cheries or other similar size dolls.

Start by making the sleeves: Co 19 sts.

1: K1, p1 to last st, k1.

2: P1, k1, to last st, p1.

3-6: As 1-2.

Start pattern.

1: Knit.

2: Purl.

3: *K1, p2; repeat from * to last st, k1.

4: *P1, k2; repeat from * to last st, p1.

5: Kfb, knit to last st, kfb.

6: Purl (21 sts).

7: K1, *K1, p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

8: P1,*P1, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

9: Knit.

10: Purl.

11: K1, *K1, p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

12: P1,*P1, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

13: Kfb, knit to last st, kfb.

14: Purl (23 sts).

15: K1, p1, *K1, p2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

16: P1, k1,*P1, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1.

17: Kfb, knit to last st, kfb.

18: Purl (25 sts).

19: *K1, p2; repeat from * to last st, k1.

20: *P1, k2; repeat from * to last st, p1.

21: Knit. Break yarn leaving a length for sewing. Leave stitches on holder or spare needle.

Start body:

Cast on 55 sts.

1: K1, p1 to last st, k1.

2: P1, k1, to last st, p1.

3-6: As 1-2.

Start pattern.

1: K1, p1, k1, knitto last 2sts, p1, k1.

2: K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3sts, k1, p1, k1.

3: K1, p1, k1, *K1, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts, k2, p1, k1.

4: K1, p1, k1,*P1, k2; repeat from * to last 4sts, p1, k1, p1, k1.

5-16: As rows 1-4.

Divide work:

1: K1, p1, k11, bo2, k25, bo2, k11, p1, k1.

Join body and sleeves starting with first back:

2: K1, p1, k1, p10, p25 (from 1st sleeve), p25, (sweater front), p25, (second sleeve), p10, k1, p1, k1.

3: K1, p1, k1, (k1, p2)x2, k1, p1, ssk, k2tog, p1, (k1, p2)x6, k1, p1, ssk, k2tog, p1, (k1, 

p2)x6, k1, p1, ssk, k2tog, p1, (k1, p2)x6, k1, p1, ssk, k2tog, p1, (k1, p2)x2, k2, p1, k1.

4: K1, p1, k1, (p1, k2)x2, p1, k1, p2, k1, (p1, k2)x6, p1, k1, p2, k1, (p1, k2)x6, p1, k1, p2, 

k1, (p1, k2)x6, p1, k1, p2, k1, (p1, k2)x2, p1, k1, p1, k1.

5: K1, p1, k8, ssk, k2tog, k19, ssk, k2tog, k19, ssk, k2tog, k19, ssk, k2tog, k8, p1, k1.

6: K1, p1, k1, p79, k1, p1, k1.

7: K1, p1, k1, (k1, p2)x2, ssk, k2tog, p2, (k1, p2)x5, ssk, k2tog, p2, (k1, p2)x5, ssk, 

k2tog, p2, (k1, p2)x5, ssk, k2tog, p2, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1.

8: K1, p1, k1, (p1, k2)x2, p2, k2, (p1, k2)x5, p2, k2, (p1, k2)x5, p2, k2, (p1, k2)x5, p2,

k2, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1.

9: K1, p1, k6, ssk, k2tog, k15, ssk, k2tog, k15, ssk, k2tog, k15, ssk, k2tog, k6, p1, k1.

10: K1, p1, k1, p63, k1, p1, k1.

11: K1, p1, k2, p2, k1, ssk, k2tog, (k1, p2)x4, k1, ssk, k2tog, (k1, p2)x4, k1, ssk, k2tog,

(k1, p2)x4, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1.

12: K1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p4, k2, (p1, k2)x3, p4, k2, (p1, k2)x3, p4, k2, (p1, k2)x3, p4, k2,

p1, k1, p1, k1.

13: K1, p1, k4, ssk, k2tog, k11, ssk, k2tog, k11, ssk, k2tog, k11, ssk, k2tog, k4, p1, k1.

14: K1, p1, k1, p47, k1, p1, k1.

15: K1, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog, p1, (k1, p2)x2, k1, p1, ssk, k2tog, p1, (k1, p2)x2, k1, p1,

ssk, k2tog, p1, (k1, p2)x2, k1, p1, ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, k1.

16: K1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, (p1, k2)x2, p1, k1, p2, k1, (p1, k2)x2, p1, k1, p2, k1, (p1,

k2)x2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.

17: K1, p1, k2, ssk, k2tog, k7, ssk, k2tog, k7, ssk, k2tog, k7, ssk, k2tog, k2, p1, k1.

18: K1, p1, k1, p31, k1, p1, k1.

Bind off.

Sew seams and weave in yarn ends.

Attach snaps.


Knitting pattern

Patricia Renwick © Copyright December 2017.

All rights reserved. You may sell items made from this pattern but not the pattern. Please respect my design rights. 

Saturday, 24 February 2018

My Heart Shawl


My Heart Doll Shawl.

Doll shawl pattern


Cast on 3 sts.
1: K1, yo, k1, yo, k1
2: K5.
3: K1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1.
4: K9.
5: (K1, yo)x2, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, (yo, k1)x2.
6: K15.
7: (K1, yo)x2, knit to center , yo, k1, yo, knit to last 2 sts, (yo, k1)x2.
8: Knit.
Repeat rows 7-8 to desired size. (I increased until there were 123sts.)
Now start working border:
Cast on 7sts. (At beginning of the shawl body row)
1: K6, ssk, with 1 st from shawl body. Turn work.
2: K7.
3: K6, ssk, turn work.
4: K7.
Continue working the border until you are 1 st before the central stitch.
a: K7, turn work,
b: K7.
c: K6, ssk, turn work.
d: K7.
e: K7, turn work,
f: K7.
g: K6, ssk, turn work. (central st worked)
h: K7.
i: K7, turn work,
j: K7.
k: K6, ssk, turn work.
l: K7.
m: K7, turn work,
n: K7.
Now continue working the border as before.
1: K6, ssk, turn work.
2: K7.
Repeat rows 1-2 to end of shawl stitches.
Weave in yarn ends.


Free knitting pattern


Needles:  3 mm. 

Darning needle. 

Abbreviations:

Co: cast on.

Bo: bind off.

K: knit

P: purl

St-stitch: Sts- stitches

K2 tog: Knit two stitches together as one stitch.

Ssk: Slip, slip, knit, slip 2 stitches and knit them together.


Yo: yarn over.
Free knitting pattern

Enjoy!